This is an article I wrote for a Thai student paper in 2008. Its a throw back but still relevant today. The intended audience is women who use these products every day.
Perms, pushup bras, braces, pinched and blistered feet from heels, hours of moisturizing, shaving, dying and bleaching. My grandmother referred to the painstaking female beauty routine as “the price of beauty.” While culture constructs some painful ways to achieve what it determines as beautiful, the most recent products that encourage those of asian and african descent to acquire lighter skin has forced many to ask if whitening products are worth the risk of cancer and other dangerous diseases.
Ask any Thai girl in college why she wears long sleeves in the scorching heat or applies endless amounts of whitening cream to her body, and she will most likely tell you what KKU student Darunya Rattanawan confesses, “Girls want to look white because they think it’s pretty. Thai girls use skin lightening lotion every morning and night.” Like young Western girls who spend countless hours trying to tan themselves in the sun, the price of changing ones skin tone may come at a dangerous cost. Doctors, consumer groups, and government officials have suggested that skin lightening products may lead to life threatening medical consequences.
Many doctors around Thailand have started to warn their patients about the dangers of these products. “More than 50% [of skin lightening products] are dangerous,” warns Utaitit Buekaew, a doctor from Kalasin province. Some of the most dangerous chemicals in these products are Mercury and Hydroquinone. In 2001 the European Union banned hydroquinone because of evidence that it causes leukemia in mice and other animals. In 2006 Wiete Westerhof, a dermatologist who founded the Netherlands Institute for Pigment Disorders in Amsterdam, and T.J. Kooyers, a Dutch chemist, said the long-term side effects of hydroquinone-based creams are “potential time bomb[s],” and that “all recent evidence from the literature indicates that the use of hydroquinone as a skin lightening agent should be stopped immediately.” Yet Hydroquinone remains one of the most widely used chemicals to bleach skin. “It’s very, very commonly used,” said Anil Ganjoo, a dermatologist in New Delhi, India and the president of the Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists, and Leprologists. “Almost every anti-pigment treatment uses hydroquinone.”
While Hydroquinone may be illegal in Thailand, Thada Piamphongsant, the president of the Thai Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Surgery, believes that about half of all Thai dermatologists prescribe creams with hydroquinone. Even though Mercury and Hydroquinone based products are illegal there are few checks done by Thailand’s Food and Drug Administration (FDA) on cosmetic creams. Last year alone 62 new skin-whitening products were introduced in supermarkets and pharmacies across the Asia-Pacific region, according to Datamoniter, a market research firm. With the increasing amount of new skin lightening products there are many opportunities for harmful ones to be overlooked by the FDA, which last year published a list of 70 skin-whitening creams circulating illegally around the country.
For doctors in Isaan the increase in dangerous products is quite apparent. “In the last 2 years I have seen patients use skin lightening creams made from Mercury and other products that make the skin very red. It seems very painful and causes an infection. Thai women are very interested in these products because of the amount of promotion they receive in the media,” says Dr. Buekaew. No matter what skin whitening advertisements say, their creams cannot make a dark-skinned person white. If a cream contains UV protection it may block the suns harmful rays, but it will not whiten one’s skin. It is the dangerous whitening creams that take away outer layers of skin, which will make someone appear white. “There are inner [layers of skin that are light in color] and outer layers. The outer layers protect you from harmful UV rays. Once the outer layers [are] gone your body still produces melanin (the skin pigment that makes your skin dark) at certain points on your skin: this is what produces dark patches,” says Dr. Suthiwa According to the experts, the best way to take care of your body and skin is to eat vegetables and drink lots of water, which will naturally clear the skin. “Skin products will not help, but will cause inflammation” says Dr. Buekaew. “The media greatly influences Thai women to use these products without mentioning the disadvantages of using lightening products,” says Dr. Buekaew.
While “beauty” may be the overarching goal, it carries the expense of countless peoples’ health.